Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a New Modern Classic

When it comes to sophisticated, timeless watch design, there is no maison more adept at the fine art than Vacheron Constantin. For a remarkable 270 years, the Swiss watchmaker has crafted intricately adorned, highly technical pieces that manage to pack in an enviable number of functions without cluttering the dial. The legendary watchmaker’s latest trio of models comes about as close to breaking that run as humanly possible.

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a multi-faceted, mixed-use marvel of modern horology that on paper shouldn’t really work. With a perpetual calendar, moon phase complication and age of the moon functionality; all squeezed into an ultra-slim 36.5mm case, you could argue that Vacheron Constantin has bitten off quite a lot. But, somehow, amid the faceted Dauphine-type hands and applied gold baton-style hour markers, it all clicks.

The silver-toned opaline dial never once strays into the realm of over-complication. Make no mistake, there is a reserved refinement that brings it all together. The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is every bit a modern classic, deserving of all the imminent praise it will undoubtedly receive.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Designed as a contemporary take on Vacheron Constantin’s 18th-century Haute Horlogerie traditions, the latest collection is truly a work of art. The timepiece features a stepped round case and fluted caseback; straight-sided lugs and a slender bezel. As mentioned, the dial design emphasises balance, proportion and legibility, with Vacheron Constantin opting for a railway minute track to go along with the Dauphine-type hands and applied gold hour markers.

The result is something that positions itself firmly in the vintage-inspired category, albeit with a touch more refinement and nuance. Above all else, the timepiece is functional. According to Vacheron Constantin’s ethos that aesthetics are “always at the service of functionality“, the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin brings complexity to the forefront, courtesy of the stunning Calibre 1120 movement.

Calibre 1120 Movement

The beating heart of the new Vacheron Constantin piece, the Calibre 1120 is a 276-component innovation that builds upon the maison’s already stellar collection of movements. Despite its meagre 4.05mm thickness, the self-winding calibre features a a perpetual calendar with day of the week, date and 48-month display with leap year indication. You’ll also find a moon phase and age of the moon complication, as well as displaying hours and minutes.

As with all perpetual calendars, it must automatically adjust to take into account the anomalies of the Gregorian calendar, including leap years as well as months of different lengths, with no need for manual correction until 2100.

As we’ve come to expect from Vacheron Constantin, almost every element of the movement is meticulous hand-finished. The mainplate, despite being hidden beneath the dial, is circular grained, while the sapphire crystal caseback reveals Côtes de Genève and hand-bevelling on the bridges, circular satin-finished sinks for the jewels and screws and polished teeth on the going train.

Ultra-Thin is In

The oscillating weight also has a 22k gold outer segment and is decorated with Côtes de Genève. When you consider that the entire timepiece is just 8.34mm thick, the integration of the perpetual calendar movement is a remarkable feat of modern engineering. What’s more, it speaks to the sweeping change in consumer watch preferences.

“As culture evolves, tastes are constantly changing and after more than a decade of large watches, many people are rediscovering the beauty of smaller case sizes – not only for their aesthetic appeal but also for their comfort on the wrist,“ Sandrine Donguy, product and innovation director at Vacheron Constantin said. “At the same time, the strict separation between watches designated “men’s” and “women’s” has blurred, in terms of both style and size. We believe that the 36.5 mm diameter of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin hits the ‘sweet spot’, combining real presence onthe wrist with a certain level of discretion.“

“In fact, the diameter is only 0.5mm more than the case of the watch that directly inspired it: the Reference 43031, created by the Maison in 1983,“ Donguy continued. “Aside from its elegance and ergonomic comfort, the aesthetics of that watch also demonstrated how the complex indications of a perpetual calendar can be displayed on a small dial with no loss of elegance and legibility.“

New References

While each model is inspired by the dimensions of the Ref. 43031, which was created at the height of the quartz crisis, there are some variances between references. Donguy confirmed that each of the three new references arrives with a different finish or case material.

• The pink gold model (Ref. 4300T/000R – H107) emphasises tonal harmony, with the colour and material of the 18K 5N pink gold case repeated in the faceted Dauphine hands and applied baton-style hour markers. Contrast is provided by the dark blue background of the moon phase display, which is matched by a dark blue alligator strap with tone-on-tone stitching.
• The white gold model (Ref. 4300T/000G) makes a subtle play on the classical colour palette, with hands and applied hour markers in 18K 5N pink gold and a lighter blue background for the moon phase display.
• The diamond-set white gold model (4305T/000G-H135) also adopts a minimalistic colour palette, with the 18K white gold case matched by hands and hour-markers in the same metal, and the cool white sparkle of grain-set diamonds on the bezel, top of the lugs and crown echoing the silvery tone of the opaline dial.

Pricing and Availability

According to the watchmaker, all three Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models are available to purchase now. They are not limited editions and will be available all year round. The pink gold model (Ref. 4300T/000R – H107) and white gold model (Ref. 4300T/000G) are priced at AUD$164,000 and come on a dark blue or light brown alligator strap. The diamond-set white gold model (Ref. 4305T/000G-H135) is priced at AU$172,000 and is fitted with a dark blue alligator strap to match the dark blue moon phase background.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Technical Specifications

• Brand: Vacheron Constantin
• Model: Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
• Reference: Ref. 4300T/000G – H106 (white gold) / Ref. 4300T/000R – H107 (pink gold)
• Diameter: 36.5mm
• Thickness: 8.43mm
• Case Material: 18K white gold / 18K 5N pink gold
• Movement: Calibre 1120 QP mechanical, self-winding
• Power Reserve: 40 hours
• Water-Resistance: 30 metres
• Price: AUD$164,000